Dutch style home Viktor & Rolf introduced “surreal” tulle ballgowns that function putting sideways and upside-down silhouettes for its newest assortment at Paris Couture Week.
The Haute Couture Spring Summer season 2023 present befell yesterday afternoon in an opulent room inside Paris’ Intercontinental Le Grand resort – a historic metropolis landmark that opened in 1862.
Referred to as Late Stage Capitalism Waltz, Viktor & Rolf created a group of 18 ballgowns crafted predominantly from tulle, which intend to recall the “golden days” of mid-Twentieth-century high fashion, in keeping with the model.
Whereas the present started with a collection of acquainted night seems to be, because the presentation went on, the fashions displayed robes that had been flipped in varied instructions to create unconventional silhouettes.
Conventional clothes together with a pale yellow costume topped with a Swarovski crystal-clad bodice gave strategy to a coral-belted lilac robe with a mille-feuille skirt, which was tilted dramatically at a lopsided angle throughout the mannequin’s physique.
The constructions have been 3D-printed in collaboration with model producer Fingers Boodt Mannequins.
One other look displayed a powder-blue “upside-down costume” characterised by an upright tulle skirt that appeared to defy gravity and hid the mannequin’s head and higher physique, revealing solely a structured corset that completed on the high of their thighs.
“A singular and narrowly outlined ‘style perfect’ is introduced and artistically manipulated to place itself into query,” stated Viktor & Rolf of the inverted ballgowns.
“The costume, whereas retaining its idealised form, antagonises, alienates and frees itself from the physique in a surreal method.”
Different unconventional robes within the assortment embody a pastel-hued floor-length costume cinched on the waist with a silk bow.
Solely subtly connected to the impartial corset on the mannequin’s physique, the robe was designed to offer the impression that it was floating alongside the mannequin.
“The physique, whereas retaining the ‘dessous’ that sculpts its silhouette – historically an built-in a part of the construction of a couture costume – strikes away from the garment,” defined the model.
“The acquainted turns into unusual, because the mundane transforms into the absurd and vice versa. This assortment visualises the sense of alienation the gathering title refers to.”
Viktor & Rolf took cues from the work of 18th-century French painters François Boucher and Antoine Watteau for the clothes’ overarching pastel color scheme, whereas the Swarovski crystals that adorn most of the robes intend to echo the night seems to be of the mid-Twentieth century.
To finish their outfits, fashions wore mesh and satin-encrusted Christian Louboutin stilettos.
“With its delicate environment, the gathering seems to set the tone for an virtually stereotypical imaginative and prescient of high fashion as an anachronistic dream of soppy femininity,” concluded Viktor & Rolf.
Collections launched at Paris Couture Week have been inflicting a stir. On Monday, French style home Schiaparelli introduced a catwalk of fashions sporting robes adorned with fake taxidermied lion, wolf and leopard heads.
In earlier years, Viktor & Rolf emblazoned delicate clothes with daring, kitsch slogans whereas the model’s Autumn Winter 2020 assortment channelled coronavirus with “unapproachable” coats outlined by spikes and tubes.
The pictures are courtesy of Viktor & Rolf.