Rick Owens references architectural and Victorian silhouettes on industrial runway at Palais de Tokyo
American designer Rick Owens mixed architectural shapes with Victorian silhouettes at its Autumn Winter 2023 present, which was offered on a runway constructed from industrial supplies inside a smoke-filled Palais de Tokyo.
Titled Luxor, after the Egyptian metropolis the place Owens retreats within the winter months, the present passed off contained in the Parisian artwork centre the Palais de Tokyo throughout Paris Trend Week.
The present passed off in a ground-floor exhibition area of the artwork centre and noticed a three-foot-tall and roughly one-metre-wide steel scaffolding system constructed because the present’s runway.
Earlier than the present started, the inside of the exhibition area was flooded with low-lying smoke that coated the ground and submerged the toes of the elevated, industrial runway that zigzagged between the uncovered concrete columns and partitions of the Palais de Tokyo.
Single rows of seating, equally constructed from the identical perforated steel panels used to construct the elevated centrepiece, flanked all sides of the commercial steel runway and had been reserved for the present’s visitors and spectators.
The usage of industrial and development supplies complemented the uncooked and brutal inside of the Palais de Tokyo, which was renovated in 2012 by French structure studio Lacaton & Vassal.
Architectural silhouettes which have grow to be synonymous with the model got a Victorian twist, which Owens defined mirrored the primness of on-line judgment.
“This assortment is about diminished architectural shapes with a whiff of sleazy seventies pseudo-mysticism,” stated Rick Owens within the present notes.
“Sharp shoulders and excessive, tight waists flare to the ankle recalling an nearly Victorian silhouette – a mirrored image of a primness we see in a prevalence of present on-line judgement.”
Recycled Pirarucu fish skins had been pigmented in inky hues through low-impact tanning processes and had been used to clad outsized jackets all through the gathering.
Native to the Amazon and Essequibo basins of South America, Pirarucu is the world’s largest-scaled freshwater fish and may develop as much as three metres lengthy. Owens sourced the skins from indigenous communities in Brazil.
Doughnut shapes had been translated into wearable, black sequin-embroidered duvets – as dubbed by Owens. Vogue reported that the puffer items had been “wearable comfortable furnishings” into which fashions had been inserted inside.
“That is me attempting to scale back clothes to the best form I may,” Owens advised Vogue. “They’re actually quilt donuts. They’re just like the fog machine of garments—dumb and super-simple.” Owens advised Vogue.
Flight jackets had been constructed utilizing World Recycled Commonplace licensed recycled polyamide and pigmented utilizing methods that enable pure pigments to be utilized to artificial fibres. Black-hued jackets had been dyed utilizing bamboo charcoal and greens utilizing olive waste.
In 2018, Owens inserted a flaming pyre within the drained fountain of the Palais de Tokyo for its Spring Summer season 2019 womenswear present, which drew influences from drew on influences from two hypothetical buildings – the Tower of Babel and Russian architect, Vladimir Tatlin’s mannequin of a constructivist tower.
Extra not too long ago, Rick Owens designed a monolithic, modular couch system for Carpenters Workshop Gallery that was constructed from plywood and clad in French wool military blankets.
The images is courtesy of Rick Owens.
