Spanish style model Loewe collaborated with French metallic artist Elie Hirsch to create a collection of pewter and copper jackets in bulbous silhouettes for its Autumn Winter 2023 assortment.
The metallic jackets had been introduced throughout Paris Style Week’s menswear season, which noticed Loewe return to the indoor tennis court docket at Tennis Membership de Paris, within the Porte de Saint-Cloud neighbourhood of Paris.
The primary of the metallic jackets to look within the present was constructed from copper, the second adopted later within the assortment and contrasted to the previous boasting a completely pewter building with a grey-patinated end.
Every of the single-breasted metallic jackets was created by Hirsch, moulded and hammered by hand after which folded and draped to attain a glance that mimicked flowing and transferring cloth.
The metallic was handled to supply a patina that aimed to naturally spotlight gentle and shadow because it hits the metallic floor of the garment. Every garment takes between 25 and 30 days to finish and weighs eight kilograms.
“Crafted in collaboration with metallic artist Elie Hirsch, the present’s metal jacket has been sculpted and hammered by hand to attain its undulating fabric-like form,” mentioned Loewe.
“The light-weight shell is then floor handled to reinforce areas of sunshine and shadow, leading to a singular patina.”
Hirsch was first approached by Loewe in 2021 the place he was commissioned to create reflective breastplates, knowledgeable by surrealism, that had been integrated inside cloth clothes for its Spring Summer season 2023 womenswear present.
“It was about surrealist gold-plated brass breastplates,” Hirsch informed Dezeen. “They liked it, and so did I. We continued for the ladies’s collections in September 2022, and now additionally for the boys’s division.”
Very similar to typical garment manufacturing, Hirsch defined he treats the metallic like cloth, utilizing patterns to chop sheets of copper and pewter that are then formed and fused collectively to create the strong metallic garment.
“I all the time work from a sample as if I had been making garments, however I reduce in a sheet of metallic after which I form the quantity by hammering, folding and deforming,” Hirsch informed Dezeen.
“I work with the mannequin makers and the designers,” he continued. “We develop the items by making my proposal evolve from their drawings, concepts or their fashions.”
Because the jackets haven’t any technique of opening or closing the clothes needed to be constructed in a method that supplied ease of entry and exit whereas exuding a lightweight and versatile look that imitated cloth.
“The problem in realising this jacket was giving the feeling of flexibility and lightness,” mentioned Hirsch.
“As there isn’t any articulation, it was essential to have the ability to enter and transfer within the jacket in essentially the most pure method attainable, but in addition to deal with the metallic as the material within the building particulars.”
Different metallic items had been introduced all through the present together with units of feathered wings that emerged from beneath open-backed shirts and recalled renaissance work of cupid.
Craft continued to be spotlighted all through the present, with makers resembling milliners producing plush curving jackets with bulbous hems and cuffs.
“A reductionist act,” mentioned Loewe in its present notes. “A stress on materiality that brings the silhouette into full focus. A diminished color palette too, based mostly on the supplies, and the way they react to gentle.”
“Parchment, velvet, copper, metal, leather-based, satin, wool: the identical supplies utilized by, or depicted by outdated grasp painters,” the style home continued. “The identical angel wings, too. Capturing a second and a motion in real-time, utilizing conventional means in non-traditional methods.”
In 2022, Loewe introduced its Spring Summer season 2023 assortment throughout Paris Style Week that noticed vegetation sprouting from sodden clothes and screens used to embellish the our bodies of fashions.
At Paris Style Week’s Autumn Winter 2023 menswear season, Rick Owens showcased his newest assortment at a smoke-filled Palais de Tokyo which recalled Victorian and architectural silhouettes.
The pictures is courtesy of Loewe until acknowledged in any other case.